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GLOSSARY
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{word}
{description}
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Cabochon
Any kind of precious stone such as sapphire, ruby or emerald, uncut and only polished, generally of a half-spherical shape, mainly used as an ornament of the winding crown (s) or certain elements of the case.
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Calendar, ANNUAL
An intermediate complication between a simple calendar and a perpetual calendar. This feature displays all the months with 30 or 31 days correctly, but needs a manual correction at the end of February. Generally date, day of the week and month, or only day and month are displayed on the dial.
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Calendar, FULL
Displaying date, day of the week and month on the dial, but needing a manual correction at the end of a month with less than 31 days. It is often combined with the moonphases.
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Calendar, PERPETUAL
This is the most complex of the calendar horology complications as it indicates the date, day, month and leap year and does not need manual corrections until the year 2100 when the leap year will be ignored.
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Calibre
Description for a watch movement according to construction, size and factory origin.
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Carat
1 Carat = 1/24 fine gold of a gold alloy. An 18 carat gold alloy contains 18/24 fine gold = 75% fine gold content.
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Carriage or Tourbillon Carriage
Rotating frame of a tourbillon device carrying the balance and escapement(s). This structural element is essential for a perfect balance of the whole system and its stability, in spite of its reduced weight. As today's tourbillon carriages make one rotation per minute, errors of rate in the vertical position are eliminated. This solution was originally designed to compensate for the wearing-position of pocket watches but has now become desirable for its aesthetics and technical sophistication in wristwatches.
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Case
Container housing and protecting the movement (s), usually made up of three parts: middle, bezel, and back.
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Centre Second Hand
see Sweep second hand.
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Champlevé
Hand-made treatment of the dial or case surface. The pattern is obtained by hollowing a metal sheet with a graver and subsequently filling the hollows with enamel.
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Chronograph
A watch that includes a built-in stopwatch function, i.e. a timer that can be started and stopped to time an event. There are many variations of the chronograph.
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Chronometer
A high-precision watch. According to the Swiss law, a manufacture may put the word “chronometer” on a model only after each individual piece has passed a series of tests and obtained a running bulletin and a chronometer certificate by an acknowledged Swiss control authority, such as the COSC.
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Cloisonné
A kind of enamel work mainly used for the decoration of dials in which the outlines of the drawing are formed by thin metal wires. The colored enamel fills the hollows formed in this way. After oven firing, the surface is smoothed until the gold threads appear again.
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Clous de Paris
Decoration of metal parts characterized by numerous small pyramids.
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Cock
see Bridge.
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Colimaçonnage
see Snailing.
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Column Wheel
Part of chronograph movements, governing the functions of various levers and parts of the chronograph operation, in the shape of a small-toothed steel cylinder. It is controlled by pushers through levers that hold and release it. It is a very precise and usually preferred type of chronograph operation.
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Complication
Additional function with respect to the manual-winding basic movement for the display of hours, minutes and seconds. Today, certain features, such as automatic winding or date, are taken for granted, although they should be defined as complications. The main complications are moonphase (s), power reserve (s), GMT (s), and full calendar (s). Further functions are performed by the so-called great complications, such as split-second (s) chronograph, perpetual calendar (s), tourbillon (s) and minute repeater (s).
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Corrector
Pusher (s) positioned on the case side that is normally actuated by a special tool for the quick setting of different indications, such as date, GMT (s), full or perpetual calendar (s).
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COSC
Abbreviation of “Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres,” the most important Swiss institution responsible for the functioning and precision tests of movements of chronometers (s). Tests are performed on each individual watch at different temperatures and in different positions before a functioning bulletin and a chronometer certificate are issued, for which a maximum gap of -4/+6 seconds per day is tolerated. Testing is performed on the movement only not the cased watch.
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Côtes Circulaires
Decoration of rotors and bridges of movements, whose pattern consists of a series of concentric ribs.
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Côtes de Genève
Decoration applied mainly to high-quality movements, appearing as a series of parallel ribs, effected by repeated application of a cutter leaving thin stripes.
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Counter
Additional hand on a chronograph (s), indicating the time elapsed since the beginning of the measuring. On modern watches the second counter is placed at the center, while minute and hour counters have off-center hands in special zones (s), also called subdials.
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Crown
Button to wind up and set the watch to time.It is linked to the movement through the winding stem (s) passing through a hole in the case. For waterproofing purposes, simple gaskets are used in water-resistant watches, whilst diving watches adopt screwing systems (screw-down crowns).
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